Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
